Moto tour of the Nuraghi, inside the truest Sardinia

Motorbike tour route info

• Level medium
• Km: approx. 200
• Track: on road

Start of the journey

Leaving the Baja Azzurra and passing through the town of Bari Sardo, we take the legendary SS 125. The one that suffers is the kickstand, which more than once lines the asphalt as if to mark our passage. The straight stretch of Tortolì is a short distance away, and a few more kilometers and we are in Lotzorai. Turn left and the road for Talana/Urzulei opens up. It is a long climb that, apart from the first straight stretch, offers great excitement to those of us who love bends, bends that sometimes seem to have no end.

We stop at the entrance to Urzulei to fill up our tanks, not least because there are still 35 kilometres of asphalt and more bends ahead of us. All around us are endless landscapes of steep cliffs made up of rocks and bushes. The only interlude is the Bar Silana, near the Genna Silana Pass, an obligatory stop for motorcyclists everywhere.

The old SS125 road takes us to Dorgali. An important stop on our itinerary is the Archaeological Museum, to which various local sites are linked, including the Grotta del Bue Marino.

The Municipality coordinates an integrated project for the management of the museum and the Nuraghe Mannu, Nuraghe Arvu, Serra Orrios and Tiscali areas, for which guided tours can be organised; it is important to book in advance.

The museum

Inside the museum are the artefacts found during the excavations of these ancient settlements, inhabited from the pre-Nuragic period to the Roman era. The various finds provide a better understanding of the life of the ancient populations. Particularly noteworthy are the Phoenician silver, glass and bronze jewellery found more than 100 meters down in the Virgins' Pit in the Ispinigoli cave, as well as the finely crafted ceramics and bronze tools.

After visiting the museum, we decide to have lunch in nearby Cala Gonone, which has a wide choice of restaurants. Lunch is probably the toughest test of the day because of the portions. We are treated to typical dishes such as Su Pane Frattau, Is Maccarrones Furriaus and the classic Porceddu a Orrostu; strong, elegant flavours, well accompanied by the full-bodied red Cannonau.

It is now afternoon and time to get back in the saddle. There are two more stops on the route: Perda longa, near Baunei, and S'ortali e su Monte, a very special archaeological site.

The way back

The weather is on our side and the return journey is made easier by the cool day, which soothes the hot asphalt beaten by the summer sun. The bends slide smoothly under the wheels of our bikes.

To get to Perda Longa you have to cross Baunei, a pretty mountain village where motorcyclists are always welcome. About 800 metres after the village, on the left, there is a steep climb that leads to one of the most striking landscapes in Ogliastra, a 128-metre-high limestone cliff that plunges straight down to the sea. A place well known to climbing enthusiasts.

After a short stop, we continue towards the lower Ogliastra. The road is full of thrills and surprises: breathtaking landscapes, vast plains and cattle grazing freely. These images take us back to an idea of nature far away from our everyday city life.

S'Ortali and su Monti

The sun is low on the horizon when you take the short dirt road that leads to S'Ortali e su Monte. The archaeological park covers several hectares and consists of menhirs, domus de janas, a giant's tomb and a nuraghe.

The guide explains how the whole area was inhabited over the centuries, so that the nuraghe was used continuously and for different purposes until the Roman period. The nuraghe is visited from the inside and the most striking thing is the structural complexity and the size of the cyclopean walls. A unique monument that makes our itinerary even more exciting.

The adventure continues

It is late and the Baja Azzurra beckons, our journey seems to have come to an end. The road that rejoins us on the SS125 requires some attention, some stretches are narrow and, as usual, there are plenty of bends, but we manage to enjoy the view of the sea for a long stretch. We pass the beaches of Orrì, Foxilioni and Golfetto.

Going down the hill that marks the end of the Tortolì area, the panorama of the Cea beach with its red chimneys opens up on the left, offering an unforgettable view.

The itineraries have been drawn up thanks to the collaboration of the Chena Cabu Motorcycle Club, which tested the routes and drew up the maps.